“When I first set eyes on this land, I just knew this is where I belong,” says Neil Moore, portrait painter, parent, partner in a unique tour company and as I observe today, a very hands-on medieval castle renovator.   Moore stands knee deep in a ditch, covered in cement dust as he passionately praises the timeless virtues of Umbria, the lush green center of Italy. Moore exudes, “Once it gets into your heart, you can’t let go.” 

I sit on the vine-covered veranda and take in the faint scent of lavender wafting in the early spring air and the velvety green of the unspoiled terrain below.   Aside from the distant jet stream, there is nothing in view to indicate we have left behind the days of St. Francis of Assisi, who roamed these very hills 800 years ago - and purportedly prayed beneath a nearby olive tree that is still bearing fruit.  There is only a scattering of stone houses, shimmering olive groves and sheep as far as the eye can see.

The 13^th –century watchtower has been home to Moore and his wife Carol Searle for the past ten years. That’s how long it has taken the Australian couple to single-handedly transform the once pile of ancient rubble into the magnificent three-level home it is today. Along the way, they’ve been busy raising three children and building a successful tour company, Living Italy. “We want to bring Italy alive through its history, music, art and general way of life,” says Carol.

Living Italy is based in Umbria, the largely unsung heart of Italy, sandwiched knee-high on the ‘boot’ between Florence and Rome.  This region, rich with oak forests and romantic medieval hill towns, has certainly been the road less traveled for the average tourist.  During previous visits to Italy, like many foreigners, I focussed on the major historical cities, with a brief trip to my grandfather's hometown just south of Naples thrown in to satisfy my hunger for family history. I had heard very little about Umbria. 

When I decided to take a sabbatical in Italy, I explored each of the country’s 20 varied regions on the internet and stumbled across Carol and Neil's Living Italy packages.  They offer a handful of spring and fall tours exploring history, architecture, art, music, wine and, of course, culinary delights. All the tours are run out of the ancient town of Montefalco, otherwise known as the 'balcony' of Umbria for its spectacular views of Assisi and Spoleto stretched across a tapestry of rich, fertile fields.

The "Taste of Umbria" is a 14-night cultural feast of all that Umbria has to offer. It includes visits to most of the major towns and villages in Umbria, four cooking classes centered on regional specialities, wine and olive oil tasting, and the unique opportunity to go truffle hunting in the forest near Norcia, Italy's salami and prosciutto capital. The idea is not just to learn how to cook dishes characteristic to the area but to absorb the people, history and culture along the way. Classes are spread out between fascinating day trips to towns like Orvieto where a lingering lunch is enjoyed with Italy's most famous white wine, the Orvieto 'classico' and an afternoon stroll is sure to end up at The Duomo, one of Italy's most magnificent cathedrals containing the work of Luca Signorelli. Undoubtedly, a trip to Umbria includes a stop in the tourist-laden town of Assisi but it's towns like the relatively unknown Bevagna bursting with Roman and Medieval riches that truly intrigue.

Of course, when all the walking and touring is done for the day, thoughts inevitably turn to the age-old question: What's for dinner? It's impossible to spend time in Italy and not become obsessed with food. Talking about, preparing for, and indulging in fabulous four-course meals is at the heart and soul of this sensual country. Wild boar, lamb, wood pigeon and luscious black truffles from Norcia are the backbone of traditional Umbrian cuisine; as is strangozzi, a long egg-less type of pasta made with flour and water often served with seasonal wild asparagus characteristic to the region. These mainstay ingredients are used in many of the dishes we learned to prepare based upon the standard Italian menu of antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci.

Just as Umbria is the heart of Italy, olive oil is the region’s lifeblood. In fact, olive oil production has been traced to 1 B.C., before the Etruscans first laid claim to the area, followed in violent pageantry by the Romans.  The verdant elixir is the base of all Umbrian cuisine and Trevi is the olive oil capital of Umbria.  Olive groves strewn alongside Trevi’s rocky hillside must persevere to grow. It is said the heartiness of the olives is a trait shared by the Umbrian people. They are a people of the land and they are more than happy to share it. Many of them do so by transforming their family homes into agriturism or licensed tourist farms. Here visitors can eat and drink off the land and taste some of the best produced olive oil in the country.

We are treated to a professional taste-testing of this liquid magic at Le Due Torri agriturismo near the hill town of Spello. Just like fine wine, olive oil has distinct characteristics. As the sweet thickness oozes over our tongues we learn to search for positive tastes of green grass, mature tomato and fresh almond. We swirl our glasses, smack our lips and come away with a new appreciation for the complexities of one of Italy's greatest treasures.

Another tantalizing taste for the senses is, of course, vino rosso, a staple at every Italian meal. Aside from its stunning vistas, Montefalco also lays claim to one of the best red wines in the country, the award-winning Sagrantino red. This unique grape is specific to the region and grows only in the valley between Montefalco and Bevagna. Its production can be traced back to the Middle Ages. I was fortunate enough to share a glass or two with our gracious hosts Carol and Neil, who are always more than willing to relay tales of their diverse life in the Umbrian countryside.

As the brochure states, the Living Italy tours truly are “Holidays for the Thinking Traveller”.  At the end of my two week adventure I felt nurtured, in both body and soul. The final night of my stay at the Fabrizi family agriturismo, a short walk from Montefalco, I threw open the wooden shudders and breathed in the midnight air. Above me stood the full moon, below me the drifting scent of rosemary, beside me, the exquisite etching of Montefalco I had purchased earlier that day from Neil Moore. As I took a closer look, I noticed an inscription at the bottom. It read, “Anna, may you find in Italy what your heart desires.”

And in that moment, I realized I had.