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“When I
first set eyes on this land, I just knew this is where I belong,” says Neil
Moore, portrait painter, parent, partner in a unique tour company and as I
observe today, a very hands-on medieval castle renovator. Moore stands
knee deep in a ditch, covered in cement dust as he passionately praises the
timeless virtues of Umbria, the lush green center of Italy. Moore exudes,
“Once it gets into your heart, you can’t let go.”
I sit
on the vine-covered veranda and take in the faint scent of lavender wafting
in the early spring air and the velvety green of the unspoiled terrain
below. Aside from the distant jet stream, there is nothing in view to
indicate we have left behind the days of St. Francis of Assisi, who roamed
these very hills 800 years ago - and purportedly prayed beneath a nearby
olive tree that is still bearing fruit. There is only a scattering of stone
houses, shimmering olive groves and sheep as far as the eye can see.
The 13th
–century watchtower has been home to Moore and his wife Carol Searle for the
past ten years. That’s how long it has taken the Australian couple to
single-handedly transform the once pile of ancient rubble into the
magnificent three-level home it is today. Along the way, they’ve been busy
raising three children and building a successful tour company, Living Italy.
“We want to bring Italy alive through its history, music, art and general
way of life,” says Carol.
Living
Italy is based in Umbria, the largely unsung heart of Italy, sandwiched
knee-high on the ‘boot’ between Florence and Rome. This region, rich with
oak forests and romantic medieval hill towns, has certainly been the road
less traveled for the average tourist. During previous visits to Italy,
like many foreigners, I focussed on the major historical cities, with a
brief trip to my grandfather's hometown just south of Naples thrown in to
satisfy my hunger for family history. I had heard very little about Umbria.
When I
decided to take a sabbatical in Italy, I explored each of the country’s 20
varied regions on the internet and stumbled across Carol and Neil's Living
Italy packages. They offer a handful of spring and fall tours exploring
history, architecture, art, music, wine and, of course, culinary delights.
All the tours are run out of the ancient town of Montefalco, otherwise known
as the 'balcony' of Umbria for its spectacular views of Assisi and Spoleto
stretched across a tapestry of rich, fertile fields.
The
"Taste of Umbria" is a 14-night cultural feast of all that Umbria has to
offer. It includes visits to most of the major towns and villages in Umbria,
four cooking classes centered on regional specialities, wine and olive oil
tasting, and the unique opportunity to go truffle hunting in the forest near
Norcia, Italy's salami and prosciutto capital. The idea is not just to learn
how to cook dishes characteristic to the area but to absorb the people,
history and culture along the way. Classes are spread out between
fascinating day trips to towns like Orvieto where a lingering lunch is
enjoyed with Italy's most famous white wine, the Orvieto 'classico' and an
afternoon stroll is sure to end up at The Duomo, one of Italy's most
magnificent cathedrals containing the work of Luca Signorelli. Undoubtedly,
a trip to Umbria includes a stop in the tourist-laden town of Assisi but
it's towns like the relatively unknown Bevagna bursting with Roman and
Medieval riches that truly intrigue.
Of
course, when all the walking and touring is done for the day, thoughts
inevitably turn to the age-old question: What's for dinner? It's impossible
to spend time in Italy and not become obsessed with food. Talking about,
preparing for, and indulging in fabulous four-course meals is at the heart
and soul of this sensual country. Wild boar, lamb, wood pigeon and luscious
black truffles from Norcia are the backbone of traditional Umbrian cuisine;
as is strangozzi, a long egg-less type of pasta made with flour and
water often served with seasonal wild asparagus characteristic to the
region. These mainstay ingredients are used in many of the dishes we learned
to prepare based upon the standard Italian menu of antipasti, primi,
secondi and dolci.
Just as
Umbria is the heart of Italy, olive oil is the region’s lifeblood. In fact,
olive oil production has been traced to 1 B.C., before the Etruscans first
laid claim to the area, followed in violent pageantry by the Romans. The
verdant elixir is the base of all Umbrian cuisine and Trevi is the olive oil
capital of Umbria. Olive groves strewn alongside Trevi’s rocky hillside
must persevere to grow. It is said the heartiness of the olives is a trait
shared by the Umbrian people. They are a people of the land and they are
more than happy to share it. Many of them do so by transforming their family
homes into agriturism or licensed tourist farms. Here visitors can eat and
drink off the land and taste some of the best produced olive oil in the
country.
We are
treated to a professional taste-testing of this liquid magic at Le Due Torri
agriturismo near the hill town of Spello. Just like fine wine, olive oil has
distinct characteristics. As the sweet thickness oozes over our tongues we
learn to search for positive tastes of green grass, mature tomato and fresh
almond. We swirl our glasses, smack our lips and come away with a new
appreciation for the complexities of one of Italy's greatest treasures.
Another
tantalizing taste for the senses is, of course, vino rosso, a staple
at every Italian meal. Aside from its stunning vistas, Montefalco also lays
claim to one of the best red wines in the country, the award-winning
Sagrantino red. This unique grape is specific to the region and grows only
in the valley between Montefalco and Bevagna. Its production can be traced
back to the Middle Ages. I was fortunate enough to share a glass or two with
our gracious hosts Carol and Neil, who are always more than willing to relay
tales of their diverse life in the Umbrian countryside.
As the
brochure states, the Living Italy tours truly are “Holidays for the Thinking
Traveller”. At the end of my two week adventure I felt nurtured, in both
body and soul. The final night of my stay at the Fabrizi family agriturismo,
a short walk from Montefalco, I threw open the wooden shudders and breathed
in the midnight air. Above me stood the full moon, below me the drifting
scent of rosemary, beside me, the exquisite etching of Montefalco I had
purchased earlier that day from Neil Moore. As I took a closer look, I
noticed an inscription at the bottom. It read, “Anna, may you find in Italy
what your heart desires.”
And in
that moment, I realized I had. |
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