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Carol
Searle and Neil Moore's life is the stuff of every confirmed Italophile's
wildest dreams. A synopsis might read something like this: "renowned
Australian portrait artist and wife carve out a fulfilling life in the
picturesque Umbrian back blocks, renovating a thirteenth century hilltop
pile, raising a trio of fluently Italian children and building a roaringly
successful niche tour company along the way.
From their
rustic home, originally a fortified watchtower and perched high above
expanses of empty Umbrian countryside, Searle explains that they "came to be
here because of Neil. As an artist, he was drawn to the physical beauty of
Umbria- rolling hills, olive groves, forests, stone villages. He also loves
it because of all the fresco cycles that abound in this area and which so
inspire his own art."
The couple
live in Castel Ritaldi, a tiny, dot of a village outside of Montefalco-
itself a small, perfectly beautiful hilltown in a region bristling with
small, perfectly beautiful hilltowns. Having lived the past 15 years
completely immersed in the traditional rural lifestyle of central Italy,
and, with combined interests encompassing the art, music, wine, food,
culture and history of the region, Searle and Moore are highly qualified,
(and fascinating), commentators on all things Umbrian. Their enthusiasm for
the area is infectious. "The beauty here isn't just in the landscape," they
claim. "It's also in the people and the simplicity of their way of life.
We've truly found pleasure in the straightforward approach to food, for
example. You learn to create variety out of what is seasonally available and
make do with that." "Dealing with zucchinis for two months as a staple
requires imagination" adds Searle, "but luckily, gluts also run to things
like apricots, pecorino cheese, truffles and wine!"
Living
Italy, their boutique-scale tour company, harnesses all the passion they
share for their adopted home. It capitilises too upon their years of
relentless research into the area's tucked-away nooks and crannys and of
relationships forged with producers, providores, restaurateurs and cooking
teachers. Attracting a largely Antipodean clientele, Searle and Moore's
specialist tours (punters can choose a walking, art, music, Etruscan, or
food and wine tour, for example) provide an entree into Umbrian life that
few could hope to access on their own. They are adamant there is much more
to Umbria than "Assisi and Perugia; it's the little, out-of-the-way places
that are special and without us", they insist, "you won't easily find
them."
Such places
(and people) might include Ettore Benedetti Del Rio, bio-dynamic farro and
lentil farmer, who serves the small Living Italy groups lunch in an
atmospheric, centuries-old farmhouse kitchen. Or expert truffle-hunter
Felice Bartoli, whose isolated property, near Spoleto, lies at the absolute
end of an obscure winding road that climbs way above the snow line. Cooking
classes, a feature of the food and wine tours, are mainly conducted in the
basement kitchen of Villa Pambuffetti, an exclusive family-run hotel in
Montefalco. Principal teacher is the effervescent Alessandra Angelucci,
owner of the Villa and a passionate advocate of the foods of the region.
Ceramics shopping at Deruta (Searle knows the best outlets) tutored wine
tastings with devoted makers of the delicious, much-lauded Sagrantino; al
fresco lunches at private homes, guided tours around Roman traces in Bevagna
and a night at the opera in an historic Teatro in Spoleto, are made all the
more memorable thanks to Searle and Moores' personable and knowledgeable
approach. Each group is treated too, to a relaxed dinner at their home.
Fiorella, Searle's neighbour and a fabulous traditional cook, might provide
some of the fare. Typically she'll drop by with trays of stuffed vegetable
antipasti that have slow cooked in her wood-burning oven. Or, she'll
commandeer Searle's kitchen table and effortlessly transform an unpromising
heap of flour into perfect strands of strangozzi, or 'priest stranglers',
the region's famous pasta, then pair it with her own special sugo. "She and
her ancestors have been putting the same thing on the table for around 800
years," Searle points out, by way of demonstrating that tradition and
history imbue every part of life here.
Accommodation for the Living Italy groups is provided
at the
charming Fabrizi agriturismo where the family
has farmed since the sixteenth century. “They
are the ultimate generous Italian hosts’” Searle says of the Fabrizis. Set
among vast olive groves, within earshot of the various Montefalco
churchbells and overlooking the Vale of Umbria, this is a perfect place to
recharge after a full day of Living Italy excursions.
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