Contents of this Page

Quick Links

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
The Etruscan Enigma  
Staying in Rome, Tuscania, Sorano, Florence & Montefalco
Sunday 26 April to Sunday 10 May 2009
EURO 4050  per person in twin share
Travelling with Neil Moore and visiting Veii, Tarquinia, Pitigliano, Sovana, Orvieto, Saturnia, Roselle, Talamone, Chiusi, Fiesole, Cortona and Perugia

Much of what we call Roman civilization is in fact of Etruscan origin, so a wander round the Palatine, Capitoline and Forum areas finds many references to them. There were three Etruscan kings in Rome in pre-republican times and the Forum to this day is drained by Etruscan engineered tunnels built in the seventh century BC!

 

 
        
 
 Highlights
 
     
 
  • The Cerveteri with its Banditaccia necropolis - a town of beehive tombs set in typical Etruscan fashion on a plateau across a ravine

  • The wonderful terracotta winged horses from a temple at Pyrgi  that are the pride of the excellent museum in Tarquinia, take your breath away

  • The painted tombs of Tuscania, quite different from those at Cerveteri, have no difficulty in living up to their reputation. Looking at these unsettling but beautiful scenes of dancing, feasting, violent sport and weird eroticism that are at once so immediate yet so strange makes it clear that we are a long way from understanding major areas of this fascinating culture.

  • The atmosphere of palpable antiquity in the Etruscan city of Pittigliano, perched on a plateau surrounded by deep ravines cut in the volcanic rock

  • The “Vie Etrusche” or Etruscan Streets that are deep channels cut into the rock without any obvious explanation. They average about 3 metres in width and the largest of them have sections up to 30 metres deep! They are usually found in the vicinity of the necropoli and the most plausible account of them is that they were made for religious processions.

  • Unpack for 5 nights in spectacular accommodation in an imposing fortress dominating Sorano

  • The cyclopean defensive walls in Roselle, a circuit several kilometres long of the biggest blocks of stone I’ve ever seen, placed one on top of another sometime in the 6th century BC.

  • In Florence, the gem of all surviving Etruscan art, the great Chimera from Arezzo

  • Montefalco's award winning wines

 
     
 
 

For 2 nights in Rome our accommodation is a comfortable small hotel in one of the oldest parts of the city, still with ancient winding streets. The location is quiet and yet centrally located close to Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, and within walking distance of the Spanish steps, as well as some significant museums and galleries, and for the more energetic a short hike to the ancient Roman forum and the Colosseum. This is a favourite area of ours being so centrally located and full of characteristic cafès and restaurants.

For 5 nights our hotel in Sorano, a small and picturesque town, is in the Orsini castle above the town which in its turn is high above the river in the ravine below and the views from our rooms are spectacular. It is said that in the stormy Middle Ages this castle was never taken and that it provided refuge for the cruel and oppressive Orsini Duke who came here by a hidden tunnel when there was a popular revolt in Pitigliano. A bit later on it provided refuge for Jews expelled from an increasingly intolerant Papal State and one of the surprises of Pitigliano is in fact its considerable Jewish ghetto complete with synagogue which has recently been done up as a kind of museum and provides a fascinating insight into how life used to be lived. We stay here for a considerable part of the tour.

2 nights in Tuscania

Accommodation in Florence for 2 nights in a famous fourteenth century palazzo in the historical centre of the city, now a four star hotel close to several of the main museums, the Ponte Vecchio and the principal piazzas, as well as the fashion and shopping areas. As in Rome the hotel position is unbeatable and there is a delightful garden terrace overlooking the city we often use for cocktails and dinner.

For 3 nights in Umbria you will be staying at the Fabrizi family accommodation, a delightful ‘farmstay’ hotel located just outside the walls of the medieval hilltown of Montefalco. The family has owned the estate for four hundred years and in 1991 a cluster of four of the farm buildings was converted into high quality accommodation. There are fifteen rooms. All have their own bathroom and private entrance. Meals are held in a pleasant dining room and there are lounge areas in two of the buildings. There is a garden and terrace with spectacular views across the Vale of Umbria to Assisi, Trevi and Spoleto.

 
     
 
 

Living Italy reserves the right to modify this program if necessary.
B L D means that breakfast, lunch and/or dinner will be included that day.

Sun 26 April 2009  Rome                                          D             Overnight in Rome
Individual airport transfers. We will meet in the foyer of our Rome hotel in the afternoon to begin our journey into ancient history with a trip to the Palatine Hill, and then explore the forum area before returning by way of the Tiber Island with its Roman bridges.  In the evening dinner in a local restaurant will welcome you into the romantic atmosphere of Roman evenings.   

Mon 27 April   Rome & Veii                                  B               Overnight in Rome
We start the day with an orientation walk of the area immediately around our hotel including the Pantheon - temple of all gods -,and Piazza Navona, once a chariot racing track built by the Emperor Domitian. In the afternoon we begin our series of visits to the remains of the Etruscan cities with a trip to the site of Veii (Veio, modern Isola Farnese) an hour's drive north of Rome, and which was Rome's competitor and closest Etruscan neighbour, destroyed by them in 396 B.C.Cerveteri (Caere to the Romans). The great cemetery of the Banditaccia with its streets of "beehive" tombs is an impressive testimony to the city's past importance and the site of some of the first major discoveries of Etruscan culture. The day will include a talk as a general introduction to the history of the Etruscans.

Tues 28 April  Villa Giulia, Transfer to Tuscania        B D      Overnight Tuscania
In the morning we visit the Villa Giulia museum which houses the world’s most extensive collection of Etruscan artefacts.  After lunch at Cerveteri we proceed to Tuscania, once an important Etruscan centre and now a delightful medieval walled town ideally placed to be our base for exploring nearby sites. Overnight in Tuscania.

Wed 29 April     Tarquinia                                  B L                Overnight Tuscania
This morning we first visit the basilica in Tuscania and then travel on to Tarquinia, a major Etruscan city whose underground chamber tombs, quite different from Cerveteri, contain astonishing examples of Etruscan paintings. We spend some time exploring the excellent museum here, after lunch moving on to the tombs themselves.  During the day a talk on the Etruscan language

Thurs 30 April   Transfer to Sorano                    B L               Overnight Sorano
Leaving Tuscania we now proceed to the site of Ancient Vulci, another of the important Etruscan cities and member of the dodecapolis or federation of Etruscan cities. Further north along the coastal Via Aurelia we come to Orbetello where a stretch of cyclopean polygonal masonry still forms part of the sea wall. We take advantage of the setting to enjoy a seafood lunch in a favourite spot. In the afternoon awe then travel on to Sorano, an exceptionally picturesque medieval town built on Etruscan foundations in the area known as the upper Maremma, which will now be our base for some days.      

Fri 01 May        Sorano  & Pittigliano                   B                   Overnight Sorano
Today we have a rest day, exploring Sorano in the morning and in the afternoon going to nearby Pitigliano, like Sorano a medieval town built directly on top of an ancient Etruscan one. Here we visit the fascinating Jewish ghetto and stay on for dinner.  

Sat 02 May     Sovana                                        B                    Overnight Sorano
Forming a group with Sorano and Pitigliano is nearby Sovana, one of the prettiest places in the whole area with a superb romanesque church and interesting medieval architecture. In the country nearby are numerous Etruscan cemeteries carved out of the volcanic rock, as well as a number of very impressive Etruscan roads, called Cave, also carved out of the rock up to thirty metres below surface level. In the afternoon an optional visit to the closeby troglodite village of Vitozza.  

Sun 3 May      Orvieto                                          B                  Overnight Sorano
Travelling west we come to Lake Bolsena, nestling in the crater of the extinct volcano which in prehistoric times created the characteristic landscape of Central Etruria. From there we proceed to Orvieto ( whose name is a corruption of Urbs vetus= old town) religious centre of the Etruscan dodecapolis and a fascinating town where we take an underground tour of the tunnels and caves which are testimony of Orvieto's Etruscan past.   

Mon 4 May      Saturnia, Roselle & Talamone   B                    Overnight Sorano
Proceeding northward we visit first the hot springs of Saturnia. We have lunch in Talamone, another coastal site, and visit Roselle, once one of the Etruscan's great maritime centres whose impressive ruins with amazing cyclopean walls are now some way inland.

Tues 5 May      Chiusi                                         B                     Overnight Florence
Leaving Sorano we now go north to the important Etruscan museum in the town of Chiusi, Following lunch we go on to Florence.   

Wed 6 May       Florence                                    B  D                Overnight Florence
Though not a major town in Etruscan times, Florence now houses an important Etruscan museum where amongst other things we will admire what is certainly the most impressive piece of Etruscan sculpture to survive, the 4th century B.C. bronze "chimera", a fabulous monster from Greek mythology. The afternoon is free with dinner provided in a local restaurant.  

Thurs 7 May     Fiesole, Cortona                      B D              Overnight Montefalco
At the beginning of our journey south we pay a visit to Fiesole, the hilltop Etruscan city that dominated the area before Florence existed. We then make our way through the centre of inland Etruria visiting Cortona high above lake Trasimeno before arriving at Montefalco itself and Living Italy's habitual home on the estate of the Fabrizi family, where dinner will be served.  

Fri 8 May      Perugia                                 B D                  Overnight Montefalco
Today we travel to Perugia, last of the major Etruscan towns on our itinerary and the major city of modern day Umbria. We visit the great Etruscan gate and other relics of its distant past, but in the National Gallery there are jewels from the Middle Ages and Renaissance that are too good to miss. Dinner and overnight at Montefalco.  

Sat 9 May      Montefalco                           B D                 Overnight Montefalco
An introduction to Montefalco and a wine tasting, then the rest of the day at leisure in the delightful medieval walled hilltown of Montefalco otherwise known as the ‘Balcony of Umbria.’ Visit Neil Moore’s tower home for a farewell cocktails.  Dinner at the accommodation

Sun 10 May 2009   Departure                              B
You depart at 8am by coach for Rome's Leonardo da Vinci Airport at Fiumicino where you arrive at approximately 11am. The tour officially ends here. 

 
     
 
 
The cost of the tour is EURO 4050 / AUD 7000 per person in twin share accommodation. A deposit of EURO 600 / AUD 1050 per person is required to reserve a place on the tour. This deposit is non-refundable unless the tour is cancelled. A limited number of single supplements is available at an additional cost of EURO 1200 / AUD 2105. The full balance is due 60 days before departure. The tour is costed on a minimum of 12 people travelling and the accommodation is limited to 14 rooms.
 
     
 
 
  • Transfers from and to Rome's Fiumicino Airport
  • All land travel within Italy by air-conditioned coach
  • Accommodation and breakfasts in Rome for two nights
  • Accommodation and breakfasts in Tuscania for two nights
  • Accommodation and breakfasts in Sorano for five nights
  • Accommodation and breakfast in Florence for two nights
  • Accommodation and breakfasts in Montefalco for three nights
  • Eight meals at specially selected local restaurants
  • Guided visits to all towns included in the itinerary
  • Admission to all galleries, museums and historical sites included in the itinerary
  • Background lectures on Etruscan history
  • The services of the tour leader throughout the tour
  • Airfares
  • Travel insurance (this is a prerequisite of participation)
  • Entry fees to places other than those specifically mentioned in the itinerary
  • Meals on excursions except where specifically mentioned in the itinerary
  • An optional excursion may be offered which is not included in the tour price
  • Personal transport costs, phone calls, laundry or tips
  • Drinks outside normal meal times, or additional wine in restaurants
A series of lively and informative background lectures on the history, language and culture of the Etruscans will be given during the tour.
 
     
 
 
What kinds of people go on Living Italy tours?   This tour is focused in particular on people fascinated by ancient history. The progam will include discussions around other ancient cultures touching on or touched by the Etruscans. Discussions on Roman history are inevitable. The single feature which distinguishes the Living Italy groups is their desire to understand and appreciate in depth the places they visit. The interests of the group are usually wide-ranging - history, fine arts, music, architecture, food, reading etc. Most have studied in one form or another, and many have engaged in studies related to music, Italy or the fine arts. The age of group members varies greatly, but most would be more than forty years old and have travelled. With a maximum of 18 places on the tour the group is large enough for you to find like-minded friends, but small enough for us to get to know you all.

What will the weather be like? May is probably the ideal time to visit central Italy, with the main tourist season not quite into full swing. Daytime temperatures can be cool with a range from 8 to 18 degrees and the evenings are cool to cold. You will need a warm jumper or jacket and a scarf, and being Spring it is reasonable to expect rain on a few days.

How fit do you have to be?
In order to visit and enjoy the natural attractions of the countryside and the historical centres of towns it is necessary to be able to walk well, as bus and car access can be difficult. While there are no medical restrictions on who may book a place on the tour, you should be fit enough to stroll for periods of up to a two hours (with short breaks) and you should specially note that the towns are not called 'hilltowns' for nothing!. Wherever possible we break up walking tours with coffee stops and extended lunches and we have tried to mix busy and relaxed days in the itinerary.
 
     
 
 
Neil Moore (www.neilmoore.it) B.A. (Hons) is a painter and etcher of exceptional ability who has lived with his young family since 1988 in the Umbrian countryside. Having graduated and then taught in the Department of Fine Arts at Sydney University, he made a second career as a newspaper illustrator for the National Times, the Sydney Morning Herald and other Australian publications. Now an established artist in his own right who exhibits in Europe and Australia, he divides his time between creative work and operating the Living Italy program together with his wife Carol Searle. Neil’s extensive knowledge and love of the history, art and society of Italy will become evident as he leads you through the tour.